What is your staging technique?

[admin]

If you've been around this forum for even a short while, you probably saw my post about my first pass down the track.

My car is basically a stock 66 sedan with a 1776 and street tires.  From my years of observing others race and stage their street cars, I developed my plan of attack.  As you can see, it failed me!    Opps!

The way that I plan on staging next time out is:

- drive around the water box
- do not burn out
- light the first bulb & wait for opponent
- light second bulb
- push in the emergency brake button, and hold it up
- rev the car and slip the clutch
- as the last yellow appears, I'm off!
- drop the emergency break, and dump the clutch and mash the gas

I believe that's how a lot of people with street cars do it.  Do you do something different?

What about you hard core drag racers?  How do you stage your "full race" drag cars?

Scott Faivre

[nielserik]

As i mentioned erlier i only drive 201m (1/8 mile) drag, called "street racing"
I slovly go for the pre stage and stage light, i only use the hand brake for stopping in stage, then i lay the brake down- put the engine to  3000rpm-Waiting for the last yellow light- i realese the clutc, and put the pedal to the metal, And iam gone in a 0,08 sek.
And then iam in heaven for about 9,28 sek.
Nekst year i have a 2332cc, and hobe to reduce heaven to something under 8sek.
Sorry for my bad english
Hilsen Niels Erik

[QuickKafer]

Niels,
    Aren't you afraid of just dropping your clutch and having that massive shock of torque go through your drive train (transmission and axles).  I'd be scared of breaking something. 
    I've been advised by a lot of more experienced racers to "pre-load" the tranny by holding the break and slipping the clutch against the flywheel to remove the slack from the drive train.  This prevents your transmission and axles from getting a big SLAP from the initial thrust of torque being sent through the system.

Scott Faivre

[nielserik]

No not at all. I drive whith street tires and on normal astphalt. I start with about 4-5 meters of weel spinning.
I will use your technique when i have MT Street radial- Not with normal street tires.
Niels Erik

[carl nolen]

Ok Scott, hard core drag racer. I've done it several ways over the years. Been bracket racing since 1984. My car has always been a full drag car. Started out with a 1835 doing 12.50's in a 63 bug. Second gear burnout, use emergency brake handle( have a hole drilled through button with a pin through to hold it in) to stage, barely push clutch in until it disengages, rev motor until it sounds right on second amber, let out clutch, release handle, and floor gas on third amber. As the car got faster over the years, I had to let the third amber grow a little before letting the clutch out or I would red light.

Installed rpm launch control in early 90's. Once I staged car, as soon as my top amber came on, I would floor gas and put it on the chip. Let out clutch as third amber would grow. Running 11.80's now with 78x92.

Alright, now for way advanced method. In 1999, I installed a c02 clutch release system and a delay box. Ok, I know it's electronics, but this is the way I race now. I use emergency handle to pre stage car. Stop car completely. Move my throttle foot over to brake pedal. My right hand in now on the steering wheel right above button switch. Let out clutch very slightly to move the car very slowly. As soon as stage light comes on, stop car and depress button on steering wheel. A c02 cylinder on the clutch pedal and brake pedal lock in place. Move foot off clutch pedal( a learned skill, not a natrual thing to do) and move throttle foot back over to gas pedal. So, the clutch pedal and brake pedal are pushed down and holding by the air cylinders. Button is contected to delay box with preset time adjusted into box. Top amber comes on, off the button and floor gas (puts the motor on the chip). About a second later, clutch releases and motor goes on power( two step turning off) and off I go.

I have since added nitrous and now I turn it on and purge after burnout. The juice is controlled by a timer and activates in the middle of the first gear wheelie. Hang on because you are in flight now . Running 10's now( or 6.80's 1/8) . how bout that for hard core. LOL. Carl Nolen www.tvwdra.org

[admin]

Wow Carl!  Are you launching a Drag VW or the Space Shuttle?

First off, "Welcome!"  We're glad to get some more knowledgeable guys in here to explain some stuff to some of us "rookies."

Do you have photos you can post that can show some of that neat gadgetry you've got in your car? 

Is what you are referring to called, "Delay Box Racing"?  I don't know how you've got time for all that going on when you are the second guy to stage!  I was freakin' out when I was the 2nd to stage because I didn't have time to find the right RPM, or get that "I'm ready" feel.

Thanks again for posting!

Scott Faivre

[Muffler Mike]

 I think that delay box racing has got to be a very hard thing to overcome when taking that foot off the clutch pedal. Its just un-natural. I have ran it though my head and closed my eyes in my car trying to simulate that. its just not right

Quick tutorial on delay boxes. Basically it is an adjustable time delay that will release a clutch or trans brake. The idea is that it is easier and more accurate to react then it is to time the 3 ambers coming down. So you put in enough delay time, and when you see the first light come on, you react and let go of a button and then the delay counts down and should release the car real close to a perfect light. If you get too close to perfect, add in time. If you are far from perfect, take time away.  I have used it on a practice tree, and if it was in my car, I could be deadly on the tree.


My staging ritual.
Ignition on, start car.
Turn on fuel pump and tach.
Power up data logger.
Pull into water box using my bubble side view mirror so I know when I am on the edge of the water box.
Set line lock.
Pull down into second gear, give a quick pre load to the gears and wait for ok to burn out signal.
Rev motor, start burn out, get rpm stable and let go of line lock and allow car to pull out and dump clutch right before the tires start to grab.
Stop car
Verify belts are tight.
Check to see if my opponent is getting close to pulling up.
If in eliminations of braket racing, check dial in on score board down track or on little sign around tree.
Activate two step and activate recording on data logger.
Pull forward until I get to pre stage.
Set/activate anti-shocker.
Set line lock and put in around 250 lbs of brake pressure.
Check to see and maybe wait for opponent to turn their pre stage light on.
Give one more visual to see that all my switches are in the up and ready position.
Give motor a few throttle pumps to get standing fuel in manifold (helps when I go to final limiter setting, and big 50cc pump helps)
Bring motor up to around 4000 rpm
Slide clutch a little until the car starts to move forward and bumps into second stage beam and push clutch back down.
Hold rpm if opponent has not gone into stage.
When all 4 stage lights on, right foot to the floor on the limiter where it should never move until I cross the line.
Wait for lights to drop. If I am bracket racing and I am the faster car, I will some times hold off on the limiter briefly.
Run through the gears and play my own game until 4th gear right before half track. Once in 4th, if I am in eliminations, locate opponent and make a decision.
Cross line, dump clutch, apply brakes gently.
Shut off un-necessary essentials. Allow motor to idle for a bit to keep turbo lubed. (naturally aspirated, motor was shut off immediately.)
Go collect what I hope is a time slip that has a 10.9x ET, a .050 or better reaction time and the word Win pointing to my side of the slip.
Coast into pits, get out of sweat soaked fire jacket, get diet coke, get lap top, download car data, check fuel, check motor, and hope it cools fast enough before next round.
And on really good days, hold my hand out at the end to collect a check.
If check is big, buy pit bitches dinner, develop the makings of a hang over, get a few hours sleep, drive  home 8 hours with a head ache    and do it all over again next month.

[carl nolen]

Very good post Mike. I am having brain overload reading that. I can't believe you remember all that. LOL. I wish box racing was that deadly but it's not for us. Too many variables can make the RT go up and down. However, it does narrow the window of time. I find it fun and adds another element to the game. And yea, moving that foot off a depressed clutch pedal is a trick. Box racing is not a sure killer RT or win light. You still have to hit the dail.

Scott, here is a photo that I have posted elsewhere before mainly talking about anti-shockers. .  I am a gadget freak. I work on high tech cars all day. If I had more funds, I would have EFI with total engine management control and data recording. I spend a lot of time looking at engine data on scanners and lap tops at work.

[YankeeBug]

Carl,  That's so far above my head, I can't believe it.    I know nothing about racing.  If you showed me that on the street, I'd say they were handicap controls for a parapalegic!    Neat Stuff!

Andre

[Cesar Franco]

I used to drop the clutch before witout preloding and its NOT a good idea, 13 boxes latter I installed an stage brake (when I get my car it came without the e brake), and its one of the best thing I have ever done for my car!!!

After the burn out I drive with the brake slightly aplied (via stage brake), untill I lioght the first bulb, then I let the cluch go a little bit, just as I feel it is engaged and pull the brake completly, it also activates the 2 step with a pressure switch, I hold the brake and the cluch engaged giving the car the pre load, the tirhd yellow came on and at the same time (ideally) I release the brake and clutch, the motor goes off the chip, and then rach for th shifter to get the car on second gear.

Since I installed the stage brake my gearbox still on one piece even though I have a 250-260 HP motor on it and the fact that my 60ft are on the 1.50 range with a 1800 lb car

Also improved on my reaction times, from a lazy .600ish to low .100.

[admin]

I used to drop the clutch before witout preloding and its NOT a good idea, 13 boxes latter I installed an stage brake (when I get my car it came without the e brake), and its one of the best thing I have ever done for my car!!!

After the burn out I drive with the brake slightly aplied (via stage brake), untill I lioght the first bulb, then I let the cluch go a little bit, just as I feel it is engaged and pull the brake completly, it also activates the 2 step with a pressure switch, I hold the brake and the cluch engaged giving the car the pre load, the tirhd yellow came on and at the same time (ideally) I release the brake and clutch, the motor goes off the chip, and then rach for th shifter to get the car on second gear.

Since I installed the stage brake my gearbox still on one piece even though I have a 250-260 HP motor on it and the fact that my 60ft are on the 1.50 range with a 1800 lb car

Also improved on my reaction times, from a lazy .600ish to low .100.

I need more seat time at the track.  I need to purchase a good helmet though.  I promissed the wife that I wouldn't race without a helmet.  I won't be running anywhere near the HP you guys are making with my little 1776.  I figure I'll keep it slow until I get my feet wet and used to racing.  Then I'll finish the 2275 and go fast!

Welcome Cesar!

Scott Faivre

[Cesar Franco]

Same here with the helmet thing, my wife didnt let me race untill I got a new helmet, and belts, I did get my stuff directly from Simpson on Torrance.


Just make sure you get the proper size on the helmet, nothing like be safe and comfotable down the track.

[admin]

My car is not very quick as of yet.  I ran 18's back in October.  I'm thinking that with all of the speed shops located near the track here in Las Vegas, I should be able to find a shop that can measure my big "mellon" and find a proper fitting helmet.

Cesar, do you ever come to Las Vegas to race?  or just to watch?

Scott Faivre

[Warner Smith]

Interesting reads everyone.  I'm going to be new to drag racing a bug, but I did do a bit of drag racing motorcycles about 15 years ago.  With the bug I am most interested in preserving my drivetrain, so the preloading tips are what I was paying closest attention to.  With the motocycles (which were basically stock sportbikes - one was a 600 and the other was an 1100) there were a different set of variables to consider.  Since my bikes were basically stock (tires, swingarm length, no wheelie bars, etc) and made pretty good power I had to be aware of 3 main things which were making sure to heat the rear tire properly.  This came with experience.  Too little or too much heat made the tire greasy on the launch which causes scary results.   When the tire finally grabs (and it will) the second thing to get right is to make sure that you are pointed STRAIGHT ahead and not just a little bit sideways in the back because if you are sideways, you will launch sideways and violently with the front wheel off the ground.  The third issue to control (assuming you launched straight and heated the tire properly) is the wheelie (in other words, not flipping the bike)   After1st gear and your 60 ft time is in, it's just a matter of banging gears and hopefully not crossing the center line.  Simple enough, right?   On my 600 I was running 12.30's and on the 1100 my best was a 10.8    I'm expecting my bug to run somewhere in the 12's....not real sure exactly WHERE in the 12's but it should be in that range.  It'll be interesting because I've never driven a fast bug and I hear they can be a handful!   I will hopefully have my engine by the end of this month and would like to get it installed in time to make a local event here on August 19th which is an import wars and bugfest event at Great Lakes Dragaway in Union Grove, Wisconsin.

                                                               Warner   

[admin]

Welcome Warner!  Glad to have you at German-Pride!

It's funny that you just brought this post up.  Just a few days ago did I get my new helmet!  In fact it still hasn't been delivered yet! 



I really need to get back to the track!  I want to go at least a few rounds in October when the Bugorama comes to my home here in Las Vegas again.  Last year I got 3 practice runs and then Red Lit on my first round!  Sucked!    Rookie Driver!

I'm also working REALLY hard to see about getting my new engine together!  I can't stand my small heads and tiny carbs on my 1776.  I'm off the line rather quick, but by 1/8th mile I'm topped out at 72-73 MPH.

I feel the need...  ...the need for speed!  LOL!

Scott Faivre